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| BASEBALL Post your Baseball Cards Hobby Talk |
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#1 |
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__________________
Always looking for vintage baseball HOF. |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 15,307
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The auto could be a 9 on a bad day at BGS and I would take the card out and look at the back corners (the sleeves makes it hard to see).
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 6,500
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Easier to tell in person than from pictures. If you feel it looks good, go for it.
Does the auto have bit of smudge on it? If so, that might bring the auto grade down. If the superfractor is for your PC, I would grade it, and likely keep it because it looks better inside a BGS case. Good luck on whatever your decision may be! |
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#5 |
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I would grade it solely for protection, and if you decide to sell it in the future the buyer can't claim any card defects.
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 22,295
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Your counter top looks weirdly superfractory, neat!
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: bkNY
Posts: 22,815
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after the strasburg for 2010
who knows
__________________
HAH HAH I STILL HAS THE RIGHT TO EDIT THIS !:eatit: |
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#8 |
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Banned
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,357
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Selecting the 'authenticate only' option, is the best for 1/1s. It shows the card is authentic and the slab protects it.
Any grade on a slab containing a superfractor only serves to distract attention away from the card IMO, and doesn't add value. |
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#9 |
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Don't waste money on grading it. It's a super. It doesn't matter what grade it gets. It'll sell for just as much in a one touch magnetic as it will a slab.
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#10 |
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Banned
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If you're doing it just so that it can be encased and protected then sure, go ahead and get it graded.
If you're doing it solely to maximize the value then no, don't get it graded because a 9.5 is not going to bump the price considering it is a 1/1. |
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#11 |
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Member
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Seems like the general opinion is don't grade it just for the grade. In that case, how should I protect this bad boy?
__________________
Always looking for vintage baseball HOF. |
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#12 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 22,604
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Grade it. That's the only way you can sell expensive cards these days.
It's more like protection to you, the seller. It's one less piece of excuse a buyer can give if they ever regret picking that card up. If it's not "gem mint", then the seller can always cite, or even forcefully create a flaw on the card, just so they can return it back to you, damaged. |
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#13 |
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Great card! If I owned it, I'd send it to BGS for grading and hope for a 9.5. I think supers look amazing with a gold label. Personally, I don't like the look of cards slabbed "Authentic". An Authentic slabbed card could obviously be is great shape but when I see it, I assume there's some flaw preventing it from being a 9, 9.5, or 10. Just me.
Congrats! |
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#14 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,357
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Quote:
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#15 |
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 4,421
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top/bottom centering is clearly off. With that in mind everything else better be perfect or you will end up with a 9 grade with a 9 auto which can't possible help a card this new.
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 9,981
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Superfractors make a statement on their own. Grading one creates too much noise.
__________________
Hobby favorites : Redemptions, Black /1 cards, Baseball : Topps flagship |
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#17 |
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Member
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Grade it. Less hassle if you plan on selling it.
Last edited by centereacan06; 01-25-2016 at 02:21 AM. |
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#18 |
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Member
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I think you'd get a graded Matuella superfractor auto card.
__________________
“I exploit you, still you love me. I tell you one and one makes three.” - Living Colour
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#19 |
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Member
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ding ding ding. This whole thing was a riddle and you won!
__________________
Always looking for vintage baseball HOF. |
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