How much are you willing to “overpay” for a rare card?

[NickRadz23]

Let’s say there’s only been 2 other sold listings the past year and now a third pops up for sale with only 40-50 ever being made. If the other two sold for roughly $300-500 would you overpay or try and wait it out for a possible negotiation? I’m in a similar situation (numbers I threw out are random however).

Just curious to see how you guys would deal with trying to secure a card you may not see again for six months, a year, etc.

UPDATE: Got my PC card in today



Matches well with the green!

[chris_ac]

I don’t blink and click to pay lol

But what’s the overpay? Like double?

[NickRadz23]

Originally Posted by chris_ac

I don’t blink and click to pay lol

But what’s the overpay? Like double?

In my situation one sold three months ago for $400, this one is about $700.

However the sub grades are better on the one I’m looking at (9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10) vs. 9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 9.0

[NickRadz23]

Also one sold earlier for $300 but like six months ago, also a 9.0, 9.5, 9.5, 9.5 gem mint

[chris_ac]

Originally Posted by NickRadz23

In my situation one sold three months ago for $400, this one is about $700.

However the sub grades are better on the one I’m looking at (9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10) vs. 9.5, 9.5, 9.5, 9.0

Is there an offer option? If you do, just go like $100 below but if a pending offer appears in that window, you ask yourself how bad you want it. Patience is fine, circumstances can always vary in the future for money or availability.

[NickRadz23]

Originally Posted by chris_ac

Is there an offer option? If you do, just go like $100 below but if a pending offer appears in that window, you ask yourself how bad you want it. Patience is fine, circumstances can always vary in the future for money or availability.

Yeah I sent an offer and he countered at $630. My counter offer after that was $550. Not sure if I should keep waiting or just eat the $80 difference. Only 17 or 18 of these graded between PSA AND BGS so the anxiety is tough lol

[Drdduet]

For production of 50 or less cards that I really have an interest in, I will pay a premium—the older the card the higher the premium I will pay. A 2017 #d to 25 will be easier to find another than a 2003 #d to 25 in general, so when I find them for sale, I will pay higher regardless what the last sales were.

[chris_ac]

Originally Posted by NickRadz23

Yeah I sent an offer and he countered at $630. My counter offer after that was $550. Not sure if I should keep waiting or just eat the $80 difference. Only 17 or 18 of these graded between PSA AND BGS so the anxiety is tough lol

If it's a toughie, then your counter should have been 585-595 imho. Hopefully you get it.

[ninjacookies]

I'm willing to pay 100-200% over going comparable healthy player rates for rare MPJ's.


My body is ready.

[Flugel]

I chased a rare Kobe card that pwcc was selling a PSA10 that went 4+ x more than psa9 same card . Thought I was in the mix going for it more than double what the psa9 sold for … I could pay double for a PC card

[tjforce]

Originally Posted by NickRadz23

Let’s say there’s only been 2 other sold listings the past year and now a third pops up for sale with only 40-50 ever being made. If the other two sold for roughly $300-500 would you overpay or try and wait it out for a possible negotiation? I’m in a similar situation (numbers I threw out are random however).

Just curious to see how you guys would deal with trying to secure a card you may not see again for six months, a year, etc.

In this situation, I probably would only go 10-20% premium or just hold out and wait for the next.

Unless, of course, this is a card that I'm pretty sure is going to shoot up in that 6 month span before the next one shows up.

This happened last year with some Giannis 2015 Galatics. Let's just say that paying up payed off.

[NickRadz23]

Originally Posted by tjforce

In this situation, I probably would only go 10-20% premium or just hold out and wait for the next.

Unless, of course, this is a card that I'm pretty sure is going to shoot up in that 6 month span before the next one shows up.

This happened last year with some Giannis 2015 Galatics. Let's just say that paying up payed off.

Yeah only benefit of this one is the subframes being higher

[NickRadz23]

Originally Posted by Flugel

I chased a rare Kobe card that pwcc was selling a PSA10 that went 4+ x more than psa9 same card . Thought I was in the mix going for it more than double what the psa9 sold for … I could pay double for a PC card

Yeah if i don’t hear back by tomorrow I’m just going to take it for $650

[rdleifriaf]

It just depends on the print run and likelihood I think I have of finding the card again.

[TFP]

Depends on the print run. If you know more will be listed again I’d wait, but if you know they’re going into PCs, then might as well buy it when available if the next one will definitely cost you more.

[rats60]

Maybe 10% at most. 3 sold this year is not a rare card. Yhat just means if you wait 4 months you will get a shot at another one. I am looking for cards that haven't sold for 5+ years. Those are the type of cards that I would over pay for.

[byronscott4ever]

Depends on scarcity, number on market, and if eBay bucks or coupon is in play

[pryantexas]

Originally Posted by Drdduet

For production of 50 or less cards that I really have an interest in, I will pay a premium—the older the card the higher the premium I will pay. A 2017 #d to 25 will be easier to find another than a 2003 #d to 25 in general, so when I find them for sale, I will pay higher regardless what the last sales were.

This is my take as well... once a card that is low serial numbered gets to the four year old mark, the odds of seeing one again starts to dry up big time

If it’s been released the last few years, wait for a more desperate seller


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[8collector34]

I dont mind overpaying since I collect for keeps. meaning i wont make any money back regardless of how much I pay. Obviously I take into consideration the the rules of supply and demand and that determines how much or if I am even willing to overpay.
I think all of my cards that I dropped serious coins on and felt like I was overpaying have since increased in value so much that they would now be considered bargain, or at least market value.
Of course there are those cards too, where I did not want to overpay, and have regretted since because of the increase in value.

My #1 chase card is #/8 and I would give anything to own it, but when you dont have much that is an easy thing to say. LOL

[rj.cataldo]

Not a b-ball card, but I have one I’ve been looking for for years! One popped up as part of a high end lot, asked the seller if he’d be willing to sell separately and he mentioned he had 2 more of the same card tucked away , which is crazy. He is asking absurd prices for one of the cards.

He mentions he is “selling his collection” but is asking absurd prices while concurrently saying he has interest in buying some of my cards.... miraculously another one of these cards hit auction (haven’t seen one in probably 3-5 years); and I can see the other seller is already the high bidder on the card.

So I either have to pay an unbelievably high price (as I know they other bidder overvalued these cards), or just let go of it. Champagne problems for sure, but really aggravating when people seem to hoard a card and then jack up the price.


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[NickRadz23]

Originally Posted by rats60

Maybe 10% at most. 3 sold this year is not a rare card. Yhat just means if you wait 4 months you will get a shot at another one. I am looking for cards that haven't sold for 5+ years. Those are the type of cards that I would over pay for.

Only 60 made, card is from about 8-9 years ago. Think three showing up recently is more flukey than anything

[Hazen]

Originally Posted by Drdduet

For production of 50 or less cards that I really have an interest in, I will pay a premium—the older the card the higher the premium I will pay. A 2017 #d to 25 will be easier to find another than a 2003 #d to 25 in general, so when I find them for sale, I will pay higher regardless what the last sales were.

This right here. As cards get into collections they sometimes don’t come back out. So that card to /50 may more be a card to /10. As far as the buying and selling market goes.

As far as how much you should “overpay” it really all depends on your budget. I know many go off comps and I would say that works only about 80% of the time. Many factors like others overpaying, a player who “got hot” or a poor or bad listing will change the market of a card. This even plays more of a factor in rare cards as opposed to card produced 500+

[REGGIE206]

If the card is extremely rare and for your PC, I believe the card is worth how much you’re willing to spend on it. Since it is so rare, there really isn’t a “true price value” on it. If you know you’re willing to spend $2000 on it, but you only put $1500 for your maximum bid.. then lost the auction for $1800 KNOWING you would of spent $2000 on it, you would kick yourself in the butt because you know you won’t see that card pop on eBay for a very long time.

[mondogenerator]

well as most of the stuff i need is rare mid late 90s and early 00s - luckily there aren't that many im missing, but the ones i am missing are huge. how much to overpay - depends, rarity vs funds vs ask vs desire vs stupidity.

rough :P

[Philatelic]

That's not overpaying, it's just appreciation.
A card is only worth what someone is prepared to pay for it and if you're prepared to pay that, then that's what it's worth.