Is Set Collecting Still A Thing?

[Gary]

Originally Posted by rnocards

What are you still missing? Can't you find them on COMC or eBay?

I do get frustrated sometimes when I'm trying to locate a card, because even when I do find it, I come across some greedy sellers who won't let it go for a reasonable market value price. So, I end up deciding if it's really worth it. I can't imagine trying to complete a set for 25 years though, wow... I'd prolly give up the first year, lol.

And thats the rub....over the years ive learned if you dont have all the key cards in a set dont attempt it unless you have a great deal on the key cards to use as a starting point.as you pointed out you end up either paying to much or just getting frustrated.

[mfw13]

Originally Posted by rnocards

I do get frustrated sometimes when I'm trying to locate a card, because even when I do find it, I come across some greedy sellers who won't let it go for a reasonable market value price.

Part of that is that you have a lot of people today who either don't know how to price cards that don't have a lot of comps or are too lazy to do so.

One of the sets I'm working on is the 2016 Topps Heritage Black Refractor set. There's a seller on EBay who has four of the cards I still need. But he has them priced at 2-3x what similar players from the set generally sell for. I messaged him several times to point this out (as well as that his prices are way higher than those of other Heritage Black Refractors of the same player) and he basically told me to pound sand.

[rnocards]

Originally Posted by mfw13

Part of that is that you have a lot of people today who either don't know how to price cards that don't have a lot of comps or are too lazy to do so.

One of the sets I'm working on is the 2016 Topps Heritage Black Refractor set. There's a seller on EBay who has four of the cards I still need. But he has them priced at 2-3x what similar players from the set generally sell for. I messaged him several times to point this out (as well as that his prices are way higher than those of other Heritage Black Refractors of the same player) and he basically told me to pound sand.

Haha, yeah, I get insulted too sometimes by sellers with extremely overpriced items. When I point out to them the recent comp sales, and reasonably engage with them on a fair market value, they get turned off and lash out like I'm trying to rob them or something!

[Gary]

Originally Posted by mfw13

Part of that is that you have a lot of people today who either don't know how to price cards that don't have a lot of comps or are too lazy to do so.

One of the sets I'm working on is the 2016 Topps Heritage Black Refractor set. There's a seller on EBay who has four of the cards I still need. But he has them priced at 2-3x what similar players from the set generally sell for. I messaged him several times to point this out (as well as that his prices are way higher than those of other Heritage Black Refractors of the same player) and he basically told me to pound sand.

Not disagreeing that what your saying happens i know it does.......but from the sellers pov getting messages "you have seen these at half the price" or "your charging to much" or anything equivalent to this is going to be useless...everyone selling at some point gets messages from low ball'er,or someone wanting a lower price.so it works both ways.....overpriced sellers and low ball'er buyers.

i have gotten them most of you probably have also....when it happens to me my typical reply is "then go buy it from the other guy who has them at half the price".....when i sell things i notice things like how many watchers i have on an item.....it tells me at least imo how well ive priced the item...a ton of watchers and no sale tells me im overpriced. an in demand card priced right will just sell...the best thing i say you can do is watch the item.patience pays off...ive done it as a buyer it works......sometimes the seller will send offers to watchers also.if the sellers offer is still to high send the counter.

[Raleigh504]

For those with PSA/SGC graded sets, how do you store all the graded cards (not talking the stars/RC)? I get the binder in doing that which I thought about doing years ago for select sets (1971, 1986 to start out before deciding to not do it).


I am doing a player run of Bob Feller during his playing days and sticking only to Bowman and Topps which doesn't seem hard. But I am doing an auto version and a non-auto version of each card. I tend to buy when they come up any auto if it is reasonable of his playing days.

[rats60]

Originally Posted by Raleigh504

For those with PSA/SGC graded sets, how do you store all the graded cards (not talking the stars/RC)? I get the binder in doing that which I thought about doing years ago for select sets (1971, 1986 to start out before deciding to not do it).


I am doing a player run of Bob Feller during his playing days and sticking only to Bowman and Topps which doesn't seem hard. But I am doing an auto version and a non-auto version of each card. I tend to buy when they come up any auto if it is reasonable of his playing days.

I only had one all graded set and I kept it in a super shoebox.

[Gary]

Originally Posted by Raleigh504

For those with PSA/SGC graded sets, how do you store all the graded cards (not talking the stars/RC)? I get the binder in doing that which I thought about doing years ago for select sets (1971, 1986 to start out before deciding to not do it).


I am doing a player run of Bob Feller during his playing days and sticking only to Bowman and Topps which doesn't seem hard. But I am doing an auto version and a non-auto version of each card. I tend to buy when they come up any auto if it is reasonable of his playing days.

Graded sets i use the BCW 2 row boxes for graded cards......if its just graded stars/RC's use a binder with the pockets sheets (holds 4 graded slabs per page) the reg pages for non graded.just make sure you get the largest rings on the binder as the graded cards increase thickness quickly.