Polishing Graded Card Cases - The Right Way.

[newfiesig]

Our hobby is largely based around condition of our collectables. If you are into graded cards, the difference between a 9 and a 10 can be huge (value wise, not debating that some 9s could be 10s, 10s could be 9s, etc.). Even for those who prefer raw cards, condition is very important.

So it stands to reason that those with graded cards would want their slabs in new condition.

There have been a number of threads and videos on YT giving advice on how to use PlastX with a microfiber cloth to remove scratches. This works great, however it only gets you half way there...

I noticed that a foil card that I had cleaned with PlastX looked somewhat cloudy when compared to the same card not polished (both in PSA cases). Also, when looking at the label from the back (dark blue-purple), you could see micro-scratches. I fixed this by using another Meguiars product called M10 Plastic Polish. Here's the breakdown of the two products from Meguiars:

PlastX - PlastX is a unique plastic cleaner in that it contains a special microscopic diminishing abrasive that enables it to actually remove below surface scratches by removing small particles of plastic surrounding the scratches. After cleaning with PlastX, for maximum optical clarity and to leave an anti-static finish, apply M10 Plastic Polish.

M10 Plastic Polish - Completely non-aggressive. This is a pure polish that is formulated to restore optical clarity and maintain clear plastic surfaces. M10 Plastic Polish should be used on plastic surfaces in excellent shape to maintain them, and/or after a neglected plastic surface has been pre-cleaned using a dedicated plastic cleaner such as M17 Plastic Cleaner, or PlastX. M10 Plastic polish leaves behind an anti-static surface.

This leaves the slab actually looking like it's new, removing the slight cloudiness and micro-scratches.

The other thing you need is the right cloth. I've tried a few, however the one that does the job incredibly is this one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0BP7J...b_b_asin_title

The grey side is practically friction free on plastic.

Some may feel like this is overkill, and that's fine. However for those of you who like their slabs like they just came from the grader, this is the solution.

Cheers.

[newfiesig]

Any other suggestions or comments?

[tmoore_25]

Kudos to you for wanting your slabs to look pristine, but most people aren't too concerned about micro scratches on the plastic slab, considering that most put them in slab sleeves as soon as they get them. Not to mention the fact that usually once they are graded, they go into the PC where there is very little interaction with the card.

[ChaseUA]

Originally Posted by tmoore_25

Kudos to you for wanting your slabs to look pristine, but most people aren't too concerned about micro scratches on the plastic slab, considering that most put them in slab sleeves as soon as they get them. Not to mention the fact that usually once they are graded, they go into the PC where there is very little interaction with the card.

While you are correct in that "most people" likely aren't concerned, but I certainly appreciate OP sharing his experience and insight on this as I do have some slabs that I'd like to improve the clarity on - and ironically most of them are due to the micro surface scratches that the Cardboard Gold and Superior Fit sleeves place onto the surface.

[tjenkins]

Good info, thanks!

[newfiesig]

Originally Posted by tmoore_25

Kudos to you for wanting your slabs to look pristine, but most people aren't too concerned about micro scratches on the plastic slab, considering that most put them in slab sleeves as soon as they get them. Not to mention the fact that usually once they are graded, they go into the PC where there is very little interaction with the card.

You are likely right that most people aren't too concerned about micro scratches. For those who are, these products work.

As well, for those slabs that don't come straight from the grader, scratches are common. Using PlastX and a micro fiber cloth will give you a (relatively) cloudy case. To get the case back to original optical clarity, I use the second polish and those cloths off of Amazon.

While PlastX makes a slab look fine, think a normal sheet of white printer paper compared to a "bright white" piece of printer paper. All of a sudden the original paper looks yellow. Same concept here, when a PlastX polished slab is compared to a slab using the M11 polish, it clearly looks cloudy.

Cheers.

[Empty77]

Originally Posted by newfiesig

...

While PlastX makes a slab look fine, think a normal sheet of white printer paper compared to a "bright white" piece of printer paper. All of a sudden the original paper looks yellow. Same concept here, when a PlastX polished slab is compared to a slab using the M11 polish, it clearly looks cloudy.

Cheers.

Can you post example pics of before/after the different stages? I'd be interested in modifying the method I've been using for years (polish product called slab renew and retired cotton socks), if I could tell it would make a difference. But I'm not sure I can grasp what is meant by different types/layers of scratches.

(or I suppose, does a camera/scanner lose it and only appreciable in hand?)

[newfiesig]

Originally Posted by Empty77

Can you post example pics of before/after the different stages? I'd be interested in modifying the method I've been using for years (polish product called slab renew and retired cotton socks), if I could tell it would make a difference. But I'm not sure I can grasp what is meant by different types/layers of scratches.

(or I suppose, does a camera/scanner lose it and only appreciable in hand?)

No problem. Here is the same card, with the first polished with PlastX, and the same polished with PlastX and then M11. You can see the difference, however it is more prominent in person.

[ChaseUA]

Originally Posted by newfiesig

No problem. Here is the same card, with the first polished with PlastX, and the same polished with PlastX and then M11. You can see the difference, however it is more prominent in person.

Very noticeable difference. Going to have to give this a try. The M11 stuff - I’m seeing multiple different brands for it when I search, are they all basically the same?

[newfiesig]

Originally Posted by ChaseUA

Very noticeable difference. Going to have to give this a try. The M11 stuff - I’m seeing multiple different brands for it when I search, are they all basically the same?

Whoops, you're right, there are a number of products listed under M11.

Either way, this is the one I'm referring to, the Clear Plastic Polish:

https://stock4less.com/products/megu...oaAgktEALw_wcB

[newcokeandtaco]

Thanks for the write up.
Based on other BO members postings in the past, I tried the Meguiar's product and really like the results. I use PlastX (with microfiber cloth) and then windex (on clean microfiber cloth) to remove the residue, especially in the edges/cracks.
Are you using anything else in the process?
Or is it just PlastX--->M11 polish--->done?

[newfiesig]

Originally Posted by newcokeandtaco

Thanks for the write up.
Based on other BO members postings in the past, I tried the Meguiar's product and really like the results. I use PlastX (with microfiber cloth) and then windex (on clean microfiber cloth) to remove the residue, especially in the edges/cracks.
Are you using anything else in the process?
Or is it just PlastX--->M11 polish--->done?

Just PlastX and M11. The key is to also use the right "finishing cloth". The one I listed above is the best I've found.

[newcokeandtaco]

Originally Posted by newfiesig

Just PlastX and M11. The key is to also use the right "finishing cloth". The one I listed above is the best I've found.

Thanks

[mrproffesional]

Originally Posted by newfiesig

Our hobby is largely based around condition of our collectables. If you are into graded cards, the difference between a 9 and a 10 can be huge (value wise, not debating that some 9s could be 10s, 10s could be 9s, etc.). Even for those who prefer raw cards, condition is very important.

So it stands to reason that those with graded cards would want their slabs in new condition.

There have been a number of threads and videos on YT giving advice on how to use PlastX with a microfiber cloth to remove scratches. This works great, however it only gets you half way there...

I noticed that a foil card that I had cleaned with PlastX looked somewhat cloudy when compared to the same card not polished (both in PSA cases). Also, when looking at the label from the back (dark blue-purple), you could see micro-scratches. I fixed this by using another Meguiars product called M10 Plastic Polish. Here's the breakdown of the two products from Meguiars:

PlastX - PlastX is a unique plastic cleaner in that it contains a special microscopic diminishing abrasive that enables it to actually remove below surface scratches by removing small particles of plastic surrounding the scratches. After cleaning with PlastX, for maximum optical clarity and to leave an anti-static finish, apply M10 Plastic Polish.

M10 Plastic Polish - Completely non-aggressive. This is a pure polish that is formulated to restore optical clarity and maintain clear plastic surfaces. M10 Plastic Polish should be used on plastic surfaces in excellent shape to maintain them, and/or after a neglected plastic surface has been pre-cleaned using a dedicated plastic cleaner such as M17 Plastic Cleaner, or PlastX. M10 Plastic polish leaves behind an anti-static surface.

This leaves the slab actually looking like it's new, removing the slight cloudiness and micro-scratches.

The other thing you need is the right cloth. I've tried a few, however the one that does the job incredibly is this one from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0BP7J...b_b_asin_title

The grey side is practically friction free on plastic.

Some may feel like this is overkill, and that's fine. However for those of you who like their slabs like they just came from the grader, this is the solution.

Cheers.

This post deserves enormous praise and recognition.

Lots of people recommend using the PlastX and whilst it does remove scratches well, it does leave a slight cloudy appearance - blacks didn't look fully black anymore etc.

Whilst I was slightly happier to remove the scratches, this problem irked me as I wanted to see the cards with perfect clarity. I'm not from the US, live overseas and didn't want to have them re-slabbed. The cloudiness is not THAT bad, but it is noticeable. It is comparable to having them inside a plastic sleeve over the slab.

About 6 months later I googled 'how to get rid of cloudy PSA plastic' and this post was near the top, so I went ahead and bought this M10 product. Slabs look basically perfect now and full clarity has been restored. For me, I had to redo the whole process a few times as you have to be very light using the M10 or it will leave micro-scratches again. You can be much more firm with the PlastX, but not with the M10 I found.

This info is nowhere to be found elsewhere and it's important especially for more valuable cards/slabs. PlastX is only half the job folks as the poster states - well done Sir and thanks again, you have brought a few of my expensive slabs back to life and given a great solution going forward too!

Lastly I would add that I wouldn't bother touching any slab where scratches are barely noticeable or can only be seen on a certain light/angle. The original plastic finishing will always have the best clarity IMO but this 2-step process will get you approx 95-98% there to full clarity - basically no noticeable difference, and much better than leaving it at just the PlastX finish (and even with just the PlastX, it's not THAT bad - and often better than having lot's of light scratches). But it's worth doing for those slabs that really need it.