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| BASEBALL Post your Baseball Cards Hobby Talk |
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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 157
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I am in the market for a 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle that has been graded from PSA/BGS 2 - 5 range. I am very worried to pull the trigger on one with all the threads I have seen on the altered, trimmed, recolored, etc versions that are in PSA and BGS holders.
Is there a database of the graded ones found to be altered to avoid buying ? What advice would you have to avoid buying a graded one that has not been altered ? Would you trust a 52 Mantle in SGC holder more than PSA or BGC ? Do these grading companies use any technologies to help find things such as recoloring and surface alterations which should be able to be found under special lighting ? Thank you in advance. Last edited by buyer1717; 11-24-2021 at 07:46 AM. |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 705
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This guy may have one, definitely looks reputable:
https://www.blowoutforums.com/showthread.php?t=1495775 |
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#3 |
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Member
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I always wanted a Mantle but couldn't bring myself to trust what I saw on eBay - mostly for the reasons you mentioned. I was very lucky to have a PSA 2 fall into my lap earlier this year that I am 100% confident is clean based on the source. My biggest piece of advice is to seek out a hobby expert you completely trust, even if it means offering up a finders fee. Anyone can look up a pop report, but that doesn't mean a non-crack proof slab hasn't been cracked and swapped. I'm sure in your area there is a reputable hobby expert that knows someone (or knows someone that knows someone) with a Mantle for sale outside of eBay. If it means paying an extra $xxx to have peace of mind, it's worth it.
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#4 | |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 157
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 705
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Buy the seller, not the item.
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#6 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,017
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The choice of "point of sale" is your key choice here, in terms of avoiding any headaches down the line. My advice would be not to shop for a steal via a sub-optimal seller on an item of this magnitude. The major AH's— REA, Heritage, etc.— or a longtime seller like a 707 Sportscards for example are sure to sell legit cards, and not be inclined to risk their rep, built over decades, for one sale of a bad card. Also, try and use an eyeball test to seek a card with beefy borders that fills the holder to the right extent.
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dagobah
Posts: 7,536
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My PSA 2
![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 966
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 10,128
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Your best bet is to try to locate a older collector who has had one in his collection from the 70s or 80s. With the rise of grading and card values, card doctoring had become widespread. None of the grading companies are good at detecting fakes. Boda has become good at finding pictures of cards before they have been altered. Search the threads here to find pictures and serial numbers of cards to avoid. Provenance is the only way to avoid altered cards, but be prepared to pay a premium. You aren't the only one looking to buy unaltered cards in number slabs.
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#11 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 911
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Every card (over 4,000) that has been outed in every forum on blowout and more, that I have been made aware of, organized by sport, then alphabetical by last name and searchable can all be found at https://www.tiffanycards.com/buyer-beware
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#12 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: French underground
Posts: 4,009
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Here's a list of dealers to avoid. Not all of them alter cards but if you avoid those who do as well as those who shill their auctions, you'll have to worry a whole lot less about what you buy:
https://www.blowoutforums.com/showpo...0&postcount=86 Specifically regarding the 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle: look for a card that exhibits a natural worn appearance. Avoid artificially rounded corners and creases that appear to have been pressed out of the surface. Also look for signs of bleaching and chemical alteration that may have been performed to remove writing or staining. Be sure to blacklight the card before finalizing a purchase. Edited to add: in almost all cases, I would avoid buying a Beckett graded card when shopping for vintage. Quote:
__________________
Dealers to avoid -- https://www.blowoutforums.com/showpost.php?p=14831085&postcount=1 Last edited by pip; 11-25-2021 at 02:41 AM. |
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#13 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: French underground
Posts: 4,009
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Quote:
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Dealers to avoid -- https://www.blowoutforums.com/showpost.php?p=14831085&postcount=1 |
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#14 | |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 8,417
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,017
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It also is smart these days to query the seller/AH on any big card purchase as to the card's prior owner. Sometimes you can get lucky and the owner can help shed light on a card's history/provenance, even if you have to lob a few calls/emails. It could be fun and really adds character to the card in my opinion.
Way back when I got my 1952 Mantle, pictured below, I was lucky enough to make contact with the owner and his son— turns out the father was the only prior owner of the card, having pulled it from a pack when he was a boy in 1952! It was such a cool story— hearing how he saved his paper route money, what the town was like where he got it, the tobacco shop where the packs were sold— I was able to interview him and record it for posterity, so that long after I am gone my son can have that interview and prove it went from pack to that owner to us, replete with pictures of it raw before the owner drove it to PSA with his son and had it graded. In these days such research into a card, if it's possible, has added benefits beyond of course just learning of its journey through time. PS: Davis, that 2 is fantastic.
Last edited by Doctor Claw; 11-25-2021 at 10:03 AM. |
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 1,512
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By the way what grade is your card? Also how many years ago did you buy your card and what price did you pay for your card if you care to disclose it.
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 10,189
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#18 | |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 10,189
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