Grading 101

[jewcer2k5]

So I have been seeing many questions about grading and they seem to be coming more often than ever before. I like to help when I can but also hate answering the same questions over and over again. This may be an oversimplified explanation but this is what I have noticed from my experience.

We all know that BGS has 4 subgrades (Centering, Surface, Edges Corners) so this is my method of deciding what types of cards to grade.

Assuming the card is an auto, if not an auto skip step 1.

Step 1 - Make sure there are no streaks in the auto, if there is a bad streak remove from grading pile.

Step 2 - Examine centering. If you don't trust your eye then do yourself a favor and purchase an omni-grid. You simply place the card under the omni grid and look to see that borders or opposite sides main features line up. For example if you look at sterling they have diagonal lines on the bottom corners from the bottom edges to the sides, those should be the same length and have the same space. If not it's off center. Cards with obvious borders you can measure the distance, make sure its close enough. 4" x 4" Omnigrid Square Quilt Ruler Accurate 1 8" Grid for Miniatures Quilting | eBay
If it doesn't pass this test it can stay in the pile but one more strike and its out.

Step 3 - Examine the surface. Simply tilt the card under direct light and look for imperfections. Surface lines, dimples, and fingernail imprints come to mind. Most "stuff" can be wiped off but these won't be able to. Buy/use an eye glasses cloth (microfiber cloth) to wipe the basic stuff away including dust, fingerprints, and other crud. DO NOT use your hands, a cotton shirt, a papertowel, a penny sleeve or anything like that. What horrific advice. Depending on depth and location of the issues the card can still grade. If you look at it and say "meh its ok" then give it a chance. If you look at it and say "oof thats awful" then its most likely a major issue. If the dimple has lines coming out of it then remove it, thats bad. This is where I recommend that if you think its close send it in. Write down what you think is wrong with the card and learn from each card you submit. Asking for advice ALL the time won't help you learn. It goes back to the saying "Give a man a fish he can eat for a day, teach a man to fish he can eat for a lifetime". Teach yourself to fish. FWIW I use a light that has a magnifyer on top of it. I like being able to have my hands free and if I see something I can just look through the magnifying glass of the light and use both the light and magnifying glass.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o08_s00

3/4 - Edges/Corners - These are the ones where you need to use your eyes the most. Look at the corners and edges. If you see white when it's not supposed to be white that's an issue. If there is white on more than one corner the card most likely won't grade. Edges just look closely. Again use the light and magnifying glass only if you see something but aren't sure what it is. The eye test (not magnifying/loupe test) is key to seeing issues. Many people over think these 2 subgrades and hold cards out that will grade. Again it comes down to testing and writing down what you think you see. Send in a few cards so you know all the details of the card and then you will get better and better.

Typically if a card passes 3 of the 4 grading tests that I give it it goes in. If it is 50/50 I will wait until I can do a bulk sub or need some cards to get to a break point on my submission. Again this is just meant to tell people what I do and give some links to some tools that helped me when I was starting. Also, remember grading is adding value to your PC or your business so you will have to invest to get it right. Investing means sending stuff in just to learn from your mistakes. Sure you can be super duper picky and you will get amazing results, but you are also leaving money or cards on the table that could end up being worth more in the long run (whether they are worth more to you or the next buyer)

Thanks for reading and good luck with your grading. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.

[SSsportsCARDS]

Good stuff! Definitely a big help.

[dasiegel]

chapter 21

[pdxprospect]

Thanks for taking the time to write this.

[hurley081182]

Nice post. Should make a sticky.

[Big35Hurt]

Great advice...thank you for posting this.

Not to derail the thread, but my advice to collectors is to ask yourself what your motivation is for grading it. For example, if you pull an auto card from a pack yourself and plan to keep it in your PC, then do you really need to spend the money to get it graded?

To me, valid reasons to get it graded are:
1) If planning to resell....grades from a place like PSA or BGC make it worthwhile should the card pass the grading criteria outlined by the OP.
2) If you buy a card and want the autograph or card itself authenticated for your own piece of mind...get it graded. Keep in mind that should it come back as not legit for any reason, your window of opportunity may be closed to file a claim with Ebay/Paypal, so you should not drag your feet in deciding what to do.

I'm sure I will get hammered on by a few members for making this post, but asking yourself up front the reason for getting your card(s) graded may save you a lot of time and money, as well as avoiding disappointment if the cards don't hit the grades you want.

[adamt326]

This is almost spot on to my process. The only thing I would add is to be completely objective. Don't let the value of a card allow you to ignore flaws or give it a little extra benefit of the doubt just because you want it to gem. Also, I see a lot of people say "I hit XX huge card in a group break, I am going to send it to BGS as soon as it gets here!" before they've ever seen the card in person, and that is always so weird to me.

[GradyM333]

This is the best thread I've seen lately... Very helpful.

I will say that I collect comics, coins, and baseball cards and the one reason I do get PC cards and coins graded is that I want my wife or family to have an easier go of it when they sell my cards after I'm gone...

They will definitely not know how to grade cards or coins and I don't think it's a bad idea to have someone in the family that either knows this stuff or you leave possible sale instructions to if they end up wanting to sell them.

Just my two cents!

[kinar]

Originally Posted by Big35Hurt

To me, valid reasons to get it graded are:
1) If planning to resell....grades from a place like PSA or BGC make it worthwhile should the card pass the grading criteria outlined by the OP.
2) If you buy a card and want the autograph or card itself authenticated for your own piece of mind...

More valid reasons.

Originally Posted by GradyM333

the one reason I do get PC cards and coins graded is that I want my wife or family to have an easier go of it when they sell my cards after I'm gone...

The biggest reason for grading PC cards that I see would be simply for the encapsulation/protection. If a card is slabbed, I don't have to worry about my 3yo getting ahold of it and doing very bad things with it.

Could you imagine how different "The Sandlot" would have been if the ball been sealed in a case instead of sitting in that stupid ball holder?

[jewcer2k5]

Originally Posted by SSsportsCARDS

Good stuff! Definitely a big help.

Thanks man.

Originally Posted by pdxprospect

Thanks for taking the time to write this.

No problem.

Originally Posted by hurley081182

Nice post. Should make a sticky.

I will be adding it to to my website FAQ even if they don't.

Originally Posted by Big35Hurt

Great advice...thank you for posting this.

Not to derail the thread, but my advice to collectors is to ask yourself what your motivation is for grading it. For example, if you pull an auto card from a pack yourself and plan to keep it in your PC, then do you really need to spend the money to get it graded?

To me, valid reasons to get it graded are:
1) If planning to resell....grades from a place like PSA or BGC make it worthwhile should the card pass the grading criteria outlined by the OP.
2) If you buy a card and want the autograph or card itself authenticated for your own piece of mind...get it graded. Keep in mind that should it come back as not legit for any reason, your window of opportunity may be closed to file a claim with Ebay/Paypal, so you should not drag your feet in deciding what to do.

I'm sure I will get hammered on by a few members for making this post, but asking yourself up front the reason for getting your card(s) graded may save you a lot of time and money, as well as avoiding disappointment if the cards don't hit the grades you want.

No problem. People grade because they either PC graded cards or they want to add value to the card. I don't know why you think you will get hammered for asking this question.

Originally Posted by adamt326

This is almost spot on to my process. The only thing I would add is to be completely objective. Don't let the value of a card allow you to ignore flaws or give it a little extra benefit of the doubt just because you want it to gem. Also, I see a lot of people say "I hit XX huge card in a group break, I am going to send it to BGS as soon as it gets here!" before they've ever seen the card in person, and that is always so weird to me.

Totally agree with both points. I will say that if I have a card that is worth more raw I am a little more lenient with my grading criteria because I don't mind taking the chance. I am also ALWAYS learning with the grading process so it's worth finding out. The fact of hitting something huge and before seeing it saying you are sending it cracks me up. The other thing that cracks me up is people that say "I am selling this until x/x/15 and then its going to get graded" then seeing them bump it weeks and months afterwards and it's still raw.

Originally Posted by GradyM333

This is the best thread I've seen lately... Very helpful.

I will say that I collect comics, coins, and baseball cards and the one reason I do get PC cards and coins graded is that I want my wife or family to have an easier go of it when they sell my cards after I'm gone...

They will definitely not know how to grade cards or coins and I don't think it's a bad idea to have someone in the family that either knows this stuff or you leave possible sale instructions to if they end up wanting to sell them.

Just my two cents!

Thanks man and yes part of the reason is just in case something happens my wife can easily describe condition. Even though I talk to her about the cards way too much and she actually is learning what is worth actual money.

"Did you sell that Correa Blue Wave gem yet?"

Originally Posted by Farmer

Thank you.

No problem dude, hope it helps you.

Originally Posted by kinar

More valid reasons.

The biggest reason for grading PC cards that I see would be simply for the encapsulation/protection. If a card is slabbed, I don't have to worry about my 3yo getting ahold of it and doing very bad things with it.

Could you imagine how different "The Sandlot" would have been if the ball been sealed in a case instead of sitting in that stupid ball holder?

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

[Big35Hurt]

Originally Posted by GradyM333

I will say that I collect comics, coins, and baseball cards and the one reason I do get PC cards and coins graded is that I want my wife or family to have an easier go of it when they sell my cards after I'm gone...

They will definitely not know how to grade cards or coins and I don't think it's a bad idea to have someone in the family that either knows this stuff or you leave possible sale instructions to if they end up wanting to sell them.

Just my two cents!

This is a very valid reason that I missed. Too many horror stories out there of loved ones selling a collection for pennies on the dollar.

Originally Posted by kinar

More valid reasons.

The biggest reason for grading PC cards that I see would be simply for the encapsulation/protection. If a card is slabbed, I don't have to worry about my 3yo getting ahold of it and doing very bad things with it.

I don't have any kids (not that I know of anyway), but wouldn't a safe accomplish the same thing? You can get a low end safe for $30-$50 that will store quite a few cards, or one of those bigger gun safes starting around $400. I can't display my cards because my cat would knock it over and onto the floor, and then one of the dogs would get a hold of it and chew it to hell. It wouldn't matter if it's in a graded holder or regular top loader...the card would be history. I don't have that concern with a safe and can store many more non-graded cards than graded in it.

[GradyM333]

Ok... Newbie question probably... For centering on 2015 Bowman Chrome do you look at the border without the name or look at what is right or left of the name and compare it to the other side?

[jewcer2k5]

Originally Posted by GradyM333

Ok... Newbie question probably... For centering on 2015 Bowman Chrome do you look at the border without the name or look at what is right or left of the name and compare it to the other side?

The end of the name.

[Farmer]

Thank you.

[Super8er]

Great write-up, Jewcer! I don't grade cards but this is really helpful to anyone who does or people like me who aren't very confident when describing card condition to potential buyers/traders.

Didn't one of the "Big 3" graders have a page on their site at one time that featured multiple examples of the same card at different grading points? I want to say it was a Gretzky rookie...?

[Chrominator]

Originally Posted by Super8er

Didn't one of the "Big 3" graders have a page on their site at one time that featured multiple examples of the same card at different grading points? I want to say it was a Gretzky rookie...?

PSA GRADING STANDARDS

PSA Blog Article "Making the (PSA) Grade – Part 1"



(My apologies if this is redundant.)

[crazy4kinsler]

Thanks for this. Definitely helps guys that are new to sending cards to be graded like myself.

[herbc]

Good informative post. The links to the useful tools and "give a man a fish" advice is on point.

[arod305]

Jewcer is the man

[PGS]

Wow, great thread. Thank you for taking the time to write it all out. Very helpful!!!

[Jaypers]

I can't seem to find the part about inserting a twenty dollar bill as 'incentive' for the grader....

[jewcer2k5]

Originally Posted by Super8er

Great write-up, Jewcer! I don't grade cards but this is really helpful to anyone who does or people like me who aren't very confident when describing card condition to potential buyers/traders.

Didn't one of the "Big 3" graders have a page on their site at one time that featured multiple examples of the same card at different grading points? I want to say it was a Gretzky rookie...?

I don't know but that seems like a poor card to use as an example.

Originally Posted by crazy4kinsler

Thanks for this. Definitely helps guys that are new to sending cards to be graded like myself.

No problem man, your thread is why I wrote it.

Originally Posted by herbc

Good informative post. The links to the useful tools and "give a man a fish" advice is on point.

Thanks man, figured links were easier to put in here than answering the PM's asking for them

Originally Posted by arod305

Jewcer is the man

Wouldn't go that far, but thanks.

Originally Posted by PGS

Wow, great thread. Thank you for taking the time to write it all out. Very helpful!!!

My pleasure dude.

Originally Posted by Jaypers

I can't seem to find the part about inserting a twenty dollar bill as 'incentive' for the grader....

Maybe I'll add it with an *

[mfw13]

Originally Posted by jewcer2k5

So I have been seeing many questions about grading and they seem to be coming more often than ever before. I like to help when I can but also hate answering the same questions over and over again. This may be an oversimplified explanation but this is what I have noticed from my experience.

We all know that BGS has 4 subgrades (Centering, Surface, Edges Corners) so this is my method of deciding what types of cards to grade.

Assuming the card is an auto, if not an auto skip step 1.

Step 1 - Make sure there are no streaks in the auto, if there is a bad streak remove from grading pile.

Step 2 - Examine centering. If you don't trust your eye then do yourself a favor and purchase an omni-grid. You simply place the card under the omni grid and look to see that borders or opposite sides main features line up. For example if you look at sterling they have diagonal lines on the bottom corners from the bottom edges to the sides, those should be the same length and have the same space. If not it's off center. Cards with obvious borders you can measure the distance, make sure its close enough. 4" x 4" Omnigrid Square Quilt Ruler Accurate 1 8" Grid for Miniatures Quilting | eBay
If it doesn't pass this test it can stay in the pile but one more strike and its out.

Step 3 - Examine the surface. Simply tilt the card under direct light and look for imperfections. Surface lines, dimples, and fingernail imprints come to mind. Most "stuff" can be wiped off but these won't be able to. Buy/use an eye glasses cloth (microfiber cloth) to wipe the basic stuff away including dust, fingerprints, and other crud. DO NOT use your hands, a cotton shirt, a papertowel, a penny sleeve or anything like that. What horrific advice. Depending on depth and location of the issues the card can still grade. If you look at it and say "meh its ok" then give it a chance. If you look at it and say "oof thats awful" then its most likely a major issue. If the dimple has lines coming out of it then remove it, thats bad. This is where I recommend that if you think its close send it in. Write down what you think is wrong with the card and learn from each card you submit. Asking for advice ALL the time won't help you learn. It goes back to the saying "Give a man a fish he can eat for a day, teach a man to fish he can eat for a lifetime". Teach yourself to fish. FWIW I use a light that has a magnifyer on top of it. I like being able to have my hands free and if I see something I can just look through the magnifying glass of the light and use both the light and magnifying glass.
Hawk Reading Lamp, Illumination Magnifier Glass with 5x and 10x Zoom - Desk Lamps - Amazon.com

3/4 - Edges/Corners - These are the ones where you need to use your eyes the most. Look at the corners and edges. If you see white when it's not supposed to be white that's an issue. If there is white on more than one corner the card most likely won't grade. Edges just look closely. Again use the light and magnifying glass only if you see something but aren't sure what it is. The eye test (not magnifying/loupe test) is key to seeing issues. Many people over think these 2 subgrades and hold cards out that will grade. Again it comes down to testing and writing down what you think you see. Send in a few cards so you know all the details of the card and then you will get better and better.

Typically if a card passes 3 of the 4 grading tests that I give it it goes in. If it is 50/50 I will wait until I can do a bulk sub or need some cards to get to a break point on my submission. Again this is just meant to tell people what I do and give some links to some tools that helped me when I was starting. Also, remember grading is adding value to your PC or your business so you will have to invest to get it right. Investing means sending stuff in just to learn from your mistakes. Sure you can be super duper picky and you will get amazing results, but you are also leaving money or cards on the table that could end up being worth more in the long run (whether they are worth more to you or the next buyer)

Thanks for reading and good luck with your grading. If you have any specific questions feel free to ask.

So basically, you should only submit cards to be graded if you think they can get a BGS 9.5 or PSA 10, thereby boosting the resale value of the card.

Now I probably will get hammered for saying this, but doesn't that kind of mercantile attitude (i.e. only grade to increase value) epitomize a lot of what is wrong with the hobby today, in that it is all about increasing profit, rather than collecting?

Third-party grading, while a great idea in its initial conception (i.e. providing buyers/sellers with a neutral opinion about a card's condition), has, in my opinion long since jumped the shark. Now its all about creating artificial scarcity where none actually exists, especially among modern cards, which for the most part come straight out of the pack in Near Mint/Mint condition (generally grades of 8 or above). Because when you start talking about using jeweler's loupes, magnifying glasses, and microfiber cloths, it's not about eye appeal anymore. It's about microscopic differences in condition with have nothing to do with actual collecting. In essence, it's all about the money...

[kinar]

Originally Posted by mfw13

So basically, you should only submit cards to be graded if you think they can get a BGS 9.5 or PSA 10, thereby boosting the resale value of the card.

Now I probably will get hammered for saying this, but doesn't that kind of mercantile attitude (i.e. only grade to increase value) epitomize a lot of what is wrong with the hobby today, in that it is all about increasing profit, rather than collecting?

Third-party grading, while a great idea in its initial conception (i.e. providing buyers/sellers with a neutral opinion about a card's condition), has, in my opinion long since jumped the shark. Now its all about creating artificial scarcity where none actually exists, especially among modern cards, which for the most part come straight out of the pack in Near Mint/Mint condition (generally grades of 8 or above). Because when you start talking about using jeweler's loupes, magnifying glasses, and microfiber cloths, it's not about eye appeal anymore. It's about microscopic differences in condition with have nothing to do with actual collecting. In essence, it's all about the money...

This really isn't on the topic of this thread (this is a how-to thread not a why-to). However, since the OP does mention the value increase, it is also somewhat on-topic. However, given the bolded statement, I'll simply ask you this. If everyone who opened packs was a collector (your statement implies that people should just collect), and there was no secondary market, would the cards have ANY value at all? And if not, would you still collect? Assuming yes, would there be enough others like you to keep Topps in business?

[mfw13]

Originally Posted by kinar

This really isn't on the topic of this thread (this is a how-to thread not a why-to). However, since the OP does mention the value increase, it is also somewhat on-topic. However, given the bolded statement, I'll simply ask you this. If everyone who opened packs was a collector (your statement implies that people should just collect), and there was no secondary market, would the cards have ANY value at all? And if not, would you still collect? Assuming yes, would there be enough others like you to keep Topps in business?

That's a very good question. I would still collect, since I've always been a collector (since 1977) , but my gut says the hobby would be somewhat smaller if investors left the scene (not necessarily a bad thing IMHO).

I think a lot of people forget that the hobby survived just fine for many many years without third-party grading. Beckett's first annual Price Guide wasn't released until 1979, and the Monthly didn't start until the mid-80's. PSA didn't come into existence until sometime around 2000. The difference is that back then, people weren't obsessed with minute differences in card condition. Card were to look at, not make money off of, especially since pre-Ebay, collectors had no way to sell at fair value (dealers generally offered 20-30% of market price). And you generally had five "grades" (Poor, Very Good, Excellent, Near Mint, Mint), not nineteen.